Once upon a time, Florida was crowned King Orange. Citrus groves covered the state from Ocala southward.
Tourists driving south from the cold north passed dozens of roadside citrus stands along every main north-south highway.
Typically small, open-air shops had hand-painted signs with anthropomorphic oranges smiling or dancing, luring buyers with their promise of “Freshest citrus!” and “Sweetest, juiciest oranges!” Bins of orange and yellow mesh bags dangled from poles, while loose fruits filled wood bins angled toward the road.
Inside the buildings, touristy tchotchkes such as orange-shaped salt and pepper shakers, alligator claw back scratchers and monkey heads carved from coconuts lined the shelves and swung from overhead hooks. Seashell-bedecked mirrors and huge coral conchs and driftwood made into lamps sold to the new tropical decor crowd.
Local foods such as guava jams, coconut candy and the prized orange blossom honey had their own sections.
Then came the boom.
Statewide growth brought Florida’s Turnpike. Tourist traffic now was rerouted to a toll road that saved hours of travel. It boasted only entrances and exits set few and far between. Billboards, many touting new Florida housing developments, lined the roadside.
Not long after came freezes and diseases, Mickey Mouse and more houses, and the big duo — interstates and the internet.
King Orange was dethroned.
Grove owners battling multiple years of freezes and citrus canker and then greening sold to developers. The groves’ new corporate owners moved their trees to the Caribbean.
Last stand standing
All that tolled the death knell for the mom-and-pop roadside stands that depended on local groves and tourist traffic. Most closed and sold out, usually to shopping plaza developers.
A few stalwarts kept their stands open, mostly through a keen sense of family tradition.
TerMarsch Groves in Juno Beach is the last one standing along U.S. 1 in Palm Beach County. Last October marked the opening of the family-run company’s 65th season selling citrus from a small shop that’s frozen in time.
“We’re all family here,” said Jenny TerMarsch D’Ambrosio. She uses her family name, TerMarsch, at work, where she’s manager, and “does a little of everything.”
Her grandparents, Wilton and Helen TerMarsch, came to the Sunshine State from Pontiac, Mich.
“They moved to South Florida in the ‘50s. Near where the stand is now, they had a motel, Casa Juno. They sold that and bought a fruit stand that sat on the north end of what (formerly was) Carl’s Furniture plaza,” D’Ambrosio said.
The couple ran it until they retired, then gave it to their sons. “In 1981, they turned it over to my dad, Willy Jr., and Uncle Danny. They moved the shop to where it is now in 1982.”
Buses brought tourists
She recollects a much different Juno Beach than today’s.
“There was nothing here before we moved here. It was just a fishing village. Even in the early 1980s. I remember the old location, but just vaguely.”
There were other citrus stands on U.S. 1 back then — all have now folded. Only a few remain in Martin County and northward where once there were dozens.
Their shop was a tourist draw. “When the 1995 season ended, buses would pull off the highway and unload here. People would swarm the shop, buying by the box,” she said.
Today, she says 12-hour days are not uncommon, especially as tourist and snowbird seasons heat up. From the end of October when they open, till the Friday before Memorial Day when they close — the absolute end of season for them, they run at a full tilt, she said.
“There are some days when there are lines out the door.”
Peak fruit season
The season begins slowly then builds to the January-February peak, she said.
Her husband, Paul D’Ambrosio, is the fruit sorter. He inspects all the citrus and other tropical fruits they sell, and grades them.
They arrive from a variety of sources, local whenever possible. Supply depends on several factors, she said — the time of year and weather, the farmer’s crop success, and price. She shops around, but with a reputation to keep up that dates to her grandparents’ time, she said there are usually backups in place if substitutions are needed.
“With citrus, there’s never enough to go around. So much goes to shipping (commercially).”
In bins are red and white grapefruit, and pomelos from Indian River. “They’re first in. Very popular.”
Grapefruit this year is selling for $108.98 for a four-tray box (44 grapefruits), which includes packaging. “It’s expensive, and we have to package well.”
Alternatives include $22 for a quarter-bushel, or loose by the pound – currently $2.39.
Orange varieties include navels, Valencias, Mandarins and Temples.
The most popular fruits sold are the honeybell tangelos, a cross between a grapefruit and tangerine. They begin shipping in mid-January.
“But now, the Orri is a best seller – it’s a cross between a Dancy tangerine and a Temple orange.”
She’s a fan herself. “The Orri is easy to peel and very juicy — so good. They are also more resistant to disease.”
Its season is now: December through February.
Old Florida varieties still sell well, too. “We sell Hamlins for juice. Pineapple oranges and Midsweet, good for juicing. Later in the season we’ll get California Sumos – they lag behind. We like to have a variety that come in all season.”
TerMarsch buys grapefruit from Indian River Groves in Fort Pierce and Vero Beach when possible, she said.
Avocados, tomatoes and squash
The citrus greening problem that caused many grove closures has new treatment and is saving some farmers there.
All the other fruits and vegetables sold are sourced both locally and elsewhere.
“We grow a lot in Florida, but some of the best comes from places like Costa Rica. The Honeyglow pineapples, for instance. Our customers ask for them.”
Local avocados come in throughout the season; four types are available from a Jupiter farm.
D’Ambrosio said tomatoes follow the season down the state. “They start upstate, then come down south to Immokalee. Later in season, we’ll get corn from the Glades.”
Cucumbers, zucchini, squash and Silver Queen corn come from the Glades.
But customers usually stop at the stand just south of Donald Ross Road for the citrus, displayed in bins at the entrance. A plate set on a crate is where Paul has sliced bite-sized wedges from all the fruits sold that day so buyers can taste before they buy.
To pay, customers must go inside where they’re offered a free cup of orange juice, and surrounded by all the extras, curated by Jenny. Juices are available by the gallon as well in refrigerated cases.
Eclectic offerings
It’s a step back in time. Here are all the kitschy things tourists want to buy to prove they’ve been to Florida, or mail home to rub their snow-bound neighbors’ noses in the thermometer differences.
T-shirts, beach-scene postcards, starfish wind catchers, and silly gifts, such as coconut monkeys, are on display.
A whole room is dedicated to the exotic shell specimens D’Ambrosio imports from around the globe. Wind chimes made of common shells cover the ceiling and waft gently when the door is opened. Wreaths covered in shells and the mirrors sell well, she said.
Local foods and those representing Florida — coconut patties, orange blossom honey and chocolate alligators are popular. Gag gifts, too: “flamingo eggs” candy balls get second glances.
D’Ambrosio taps local sellers to support their small businesses. Jams, jellies and local honey varieties occupy a whole shelf. Nearby are Upper Crust pies from the Lake Worth Beach bakery. Maria’s healthy cookies are provided by a local baker.
The shop exists because of online sales that got them through COVID, she said. Today, however, only about 25% of their orders come online.
“Patrons still place orders in person, or call because of our customer service,” she said. The personal touch of recommending fruit and gifts resonates.
Personalized service
They get their questions answered on the spot, too, and while some are practical, others are unusual, D’Ambrosio said.
“I’ve had people ask (about the candy) if these are real gator eggs. And some who come in wearing sunglasses want to know what kind of oranges the grapefruit are.”
But, she said, the most common queries are about the fruit. “They ask ‘Is it seedless?’ and ‘Does it peel easily?’ And they ask our honest opinion about the fruit. That’s why we have a guarantee” to replace fruits if needed.
“But that’s what keeps us going. We give personalized service. We have the best customers anywhere. We endured COVID — it was absolutely amazing, because of our customers. We would have had to shut down.”
Friendliness, a taste of old Florida, and a free glass of juice are what attract Susie Best, a West Palm Beach native and history enthusiast.
She recalls a number of stands in Palm Beach County, as well as groves where you could see the citrus trees. “We used to go to Anthony’s Groves out in Loxahatchee, and Cushman’s on Forest Hill. There were a lot of others.”
Along with TerMarsch, Anthony’s was one of the last along U.S. 1 in Palm Beach County, just north of Belvedere Road. It is now the Joy Noodles restaurant.
Best laments the loss. “Now they’re all gone. They all are closed or online only.”
However, TerMarsch plans to be there as long as it possibly can.
This story was originally published by Stet News Palm Beach, a WLRN News partner.
